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KitchenAid Pro Line Series Blender review: |

KitchenAid Pro Line Series Blender review:

If all you want from a blender is food-mincing muscle and premium build quality, then KitchenAid’s $630 Pro Series (£489 in the UK, roughly AU$848 in Australia) should certainly be on your short list. Equipped with a monster-size 3.5 peak horsepower motor set inside a massive die-cast metal base, this machine has blending power and then some. Unfortunately it also has a sky-high price tag to match.

Sheer brawn and good looks aren’t everything, either. The best kitchen blenders are also easy to operate and keep clean. While the KitchenAid Pro Line gets some of this combination right, sadly you can’t rely entirely on its few automatic blending functions. For the smoothest blends possible, you must actively employ the Pro Line’s tamper as well. To enjoy a less-manual experience you’re better off buying a more-capable Vitamix 7500 blender or an advanced Blendtec Designer Series machine. Both ask you to do less work and are mighty blenders, too.


Design and features

KitchenAid definitely wasn’t kidding around when it designed the Pro Line Series Blender. The base of the appliance is molded from a gigantic block of die-cast metal, which tips the scales at a substantial 15 pounds, 14 ounces. Thankfully the blender’s engineers cut handle holes on each side of the base, otherwise picking this beast up would be a tall order.

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This blender has huge, heavy die-cast metal base.


Chris Monroe/CNET

KitchenAid’s use of die-cast metal extends to the blender’s controls. On the front of the Pro Line are a pair of switches for “Start/Stop” and “Pulse H/L” that flip both up and down. The latter activates the machine’s pulse mode, toggling between either high or low blade speeds. The third and final control is a big metal dial that selects three blending presets (soup, smoothies and juice) along with manual speeds that range from 1 all the way up to a maximum of 11. (Spinal Tap fans, take note.)

A square silicone pad sits on top of the base and helps to secure the blender jar within its mounting. The 87-ounce “thermal control” jar is big, too, and sports double plastic walls for insulation. The last piece of the puzzle is what KitchenAid calls the “Flex Edge Tamper,” a chunky rectangular stick encased in a rubbery silicone skin.

Performance and usability

The KitchenAid Pro Line Series blender relies on a powerful electric motor with a rated output of 3.5 peak horsepower. Even so, my experience testing the appliance was disappointing. I imagined that the blender’s steel blades would pulverize all food items I threw at it, and with minimum effort from yours truly. In reality though, the Pro Line often needed the aid of its tamper to push material trapped at the top of its jar down toward the whirring blades below.

Competing blenders handled our tests with much less difficulty and better results. Specifically, the Blendtec Designer Series Wildside and Vitamix 7500 blenders both plowed through our test ingredients in less time and with little or no tamping necessary.

Spinning at top speed, the Pro Line’s engine is quite loud as well. It emits a high-pitched whine that I found painful and distracting. The heavy die-cast metal base serves as an excellent anchor, however, and holds the entire blender apparatus rock-steady, even when running at full tilt.

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The blender crushes ice, but some larger chunks can escape the blender blades if you don’t use the tamper.


Brian Bennett/CNET

Ice

Using its smoothie setting, it took about 45 seconds for the KitchenAid Pro Line Series to turn 2 cups (16 ounces) of refrigerator ice crescents into small ice pellets. At the end of the cycle, however, a few large chunks of ice remained. Running the machine at high speed for an additional 15 to 20 seconds while pushing with the tamper successfully pulverized the remaining ice fragments.

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