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Louisville eatery’s emphasis on biscuits pays off: review |

Louisville eatery’s emphasis on biscuits pays off: review

Biscuit Bar

Food: Three stars


Service: Three stars

Ambience: Two and a half stars

Price: $-$$

Address: 579 East South Boulder Road, Louisville

Contact: 720-890-8025, biscuitbarlouisville.com

Hours: 7-noon Monday-Sunday

Noise level: Low, with a classic county soundtrack playing discreetly in the background, which is probably the absolute best music to eat biscuits and gravy by.

Biscuits, and its culinary partner in crime, gravy, were initially born out of economic necessity, but now enjoy a reputation as soothing Southern-inspired comfort food. American biscuits, which generally do not require yeast for rising, are inexpensive and easy to prepare. The venerable gravy accompaniment requires nothing more than fat, milk and flour, although fancier interpretations may include a relatively luxurious smattering of crumbled sausage. But despite the humble origins of biscuits and gravy, they’re darn hard to beat for a satisfying breakfast, no matter what the size of your wallet is.

One local site that spotlights this comforting specialty is Louisville’s aptly named Biscuit Bar. A spinoff of its next-door neighbor, Mudrock’s Tap and Tavern, this venue showcases its namesake in nearly all of its menu items.

On a recent weekday morning visit, the Biscuit Bar exuded a pleasantly low-key vibe and service to match. Warm dark tones and the physical layout give this restaurant the appearance of a hospitable and down-to-earth bar. It’s the kind of place where you wouldn’t be surprised to see someone quietly tallying up the previous night’s tavern receipts like something out of a Sam Elliot movie.

Getting back to the food, minimalists can enjoy the scratch-made buttermilk biscuit offering with nothing more than a spread of jam or butter. Biscuit breakfast sandwiches, with egg, cheese and a choice of ham, sausage, bacon, or no meat at all, are also on tap, as is a Monte Cristo variation. There’s also a veggie number featuring portobello mushroom, spinach, tomato and Swiss cheese, but meat lovers can also opt for ones showcasing fried chicken or pulled pork, among other choices. Last but not least, there’s a selection of biscuit-based skillet breakfasts that are hearty enough to prepare one for a Bunyanesque day’s work complete with giant blue ox.

Given the straightforward fare, one would expect that the coffee offerings here might be nothing more than your basic food service cup of joe. That would have been fine, but Biscuit Bar takes its game to the next level by cold brewing beans from Oskar Blues’ Hotbox Roasters. This coffee is also available hot, and the cold brew process makes for superior flavor at any temperature. A $4 hot coffee combines hot water and cold brew to make a top notch Americano-style drink, and a $4.25 latte was smoother and more nuanced than what you’d get at a coffee chains.

My two breakfast companions and I were a hungry lot, and we all opted for one of the generously portioned skillets. One of my friends went for an old standby of an $8.99 biscuits and sausage gravy plate with two eggs and home fries. The spuds were nicely crisp and the sunny side up eggs were properly prepared, neither too runny or too hard. The only quibble was that the sausage gravy could have done with less salt, but in every other respect, it outshined most of its peers. More often than not, I’ve noticed that some biscuit gravies have a slightly off, somewhat processed taste, and this eatery’s version did not, making for an appealingly clean homespun flavor.

For $10.49, I enjoyed a course identical to the above biscuits and gravy selection, albeit with the addition of two strips of boneless fried chicken. Featuring lively but not overwhelming seasoning, moist and tender white meat poultry and a proper crisp exterior, this bird was a worthwhile addition for those with more voracious appetites. The biscuit was also top notch through and through. Some biscuits may possess compelling crispness and crumb on the outside, but suffer from a soggy interior. Biscuit Bar’s take possessed desirable exterior qualities as well as a fine center with just the right measure of moisture and lightness.

Last but not least, another friend, who’s actually quite a sober person, opted for the $9.99 Hangover Helper Skillet. This restorative breakfast was something of an everything but the kitchen sink choice, including eggs, bacon, cheese, onions and tomato over breakfast potatoes and a biscuit. What really made this choice stand out was the addition of Mudrock’s green chile, which struck an optimum balance between heat, meatiness and well-rounded flavor.

While there’s a few items that don’t feature this eatery’s namesake product, Biscuit Bar successfully commits to showcasing the humble biscuit in numerous satisfying choices at a fair price. The mellow vibe enhances the overall experience, and it’s definitely a worthwhile destination for the textbook American breakfast enthusiast.

Category: Skillets  Tags: ,  Comments off
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