site stats
Wine Me Dine Me: Traditional Hanukkah latkes with a new twist … |

Wine Me Dine Me: Traditional Hanukkah latkes with a new twist …

Since Hanukkah began two days ago, many have been drizzling cooking oil into cast iron skillets and frying up the traditional batch of latkes, the potato pancakes fried in oil to commemorate the miracle of one day’s oil lasting eight days during the rededication of the desecrated Second Temple in Jerusalem. The little jelly donuts, sufganiyot, also cooked in oil, are enjoyed, too.


At Bubby’s NY Style Delicatessen, you’ll find a very simple and delicious version of the latkes. Deli owner Gregg Schweitzer says that the way they make them in the restaurant isn’t quite like you’d make them at home because they make them in big batches, but his version comes from a recipe handed down to him from his grandmother, then mother, just shredded potatoes and onion (more potato than onion), egg, salt and pepper and matzo meal formed into a patty. At home, you’d shallow fry them in a cast iron skillet. Bubby’s serves them with applesauce and sour cream, also traditional. Right now, he says, more diners are coming in for latkes and many order them for Hanukkah dinners when they might want to make everything else for the meal except the latkes. They also make plenty of other traditional Jewish dishes like sweet noodle kugel, brisket, knish, matzo ball soup and smoked fish. Their latkes are my favorite, though, so go get some with their brisket or nova lox bennie for breakfast, Hanukkah or not.

Find Bubby’s NY Style Deli at 241 Hanover St., Portsmouth, or visit www.bubbysdeli.com.

Here is my favorite latke recipe and a newfangled one I used recently which includes parsnips and a lovely cinnamon applesauce.

Avi’s Latkes

Makes 20-22

2 1/2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes

1 large onion, shredded

3/4 cup matzo meal

2 eggs, beaten

1 T. potato starch

1 1/4 t. Salt

1/2 t.

Grapeseed oil for frying (about 2 cups) or schmaltz (chicken fat)

Shred the potatoes using a fine shredder or food processor with a shredding attachment. I use a Spiralizer, of course. Place the shredded potato into a bowl of cold water.

Grate the onion to extremely fine. Drain the potatoes, then place in the center of a clean dish towel or a few layers of cheesecloth and top with the onion. Wrap it all up and squeeze to extract the liquid into a bowl. Place the potato and onion into a dry bowl.

Add the oil or schmaltz to a heavy skillet. Heat to about 370 degrees F. Meanwhile, mix the matzo meal, potato starch, beaten eggs, salt and pepper into your potato and onion mixture.

Make the pancakes by taking about three to four tablespoons of the mixture and shape it into a flat disc. Place into the hot oil, but don’t crowd the pan. You should have sizzling oil but not smoking. If it smokes, turn down the heat a tiny bit. Consider starting with one test latke, then adjust the heat and fry about 4 at a time, about 3 minutes per side until brown and crisp. Remove and cool on a wire rack. Serve with sour cream and applesauce.

Parsnip and Potato Latkes with Cinnamon Applesauce

Adapted from the Food Network

For the applesauce:

3 lb. mixed red apples, unpeeled

1 lemon

1 cinnamon stick

For the latkes:

1/2 lb. (about 2) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled

1/2 lb. (about 4) parsnips, peeled

1/2 medium onion

1 clove garlic, minced

2 large eggs

2 T. chopped fresh parsley

2 T. minced fresh chives

3 T. all-purpose flour Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

Make the applesauce:

Cut the apples into 1- inch pieces. Remove 3 wide strips zest from the lemon with a vegetable peeler; transfer to a saucepan and squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the apples and cinnamon stick, cover and cook over medium heat until soft, 15 to 20 minutes.

Uncover and increase the heat to medium high. Continue to cook, mashing and stirring the apples, until they thicken, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick, then pass the apples through a food mill or puree in a food processor. Set aside until ready to serve.

Make the latkes:

Grate the potatoes, parsnips and onion using the medium grater attachment of a food processor or the large holes of a box grater. Squeeze the mixture by the handful over the sink to remove any excess liquid.

Mix with the garlic, eggs, parsley and chives in a large bowl, then add the flour and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Shape into 12 thin patties, squeezing to remove any remaining liquid as you form each one; lay on a sheet of parchment.

Heat 1/4 inch of peanut oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the latkes in batches until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and season with salt while hot. Serve with the cinnamon applesauce.

The Dish

Get behind this project! Since 2015, David Vargas has been helping us learn all about just how delicious Mexican food can be with this popular Vida Cantina restaurant just outside of downtown Portsmouth. Now, it’s our turn to help him and Dos Amigos Burritos owner Joel Harris “produce artisan tortillas made in New Hampshire from New Hampshire grown corn for the people of the greater Seacoast. Our high-quality tortillas will be made from Tuckaway Farm’s organic, heirloom flint corn using local expertise and labor in a way that strengthens the bond between the food grower, the food producer and the food consumer.”

Their Kickstarter campaign will help them get a custom-made tortilla machine and they’ll be able to supply Vida Cantina and all the Dos Amigos restaurants with tortillas made from locally-grown corn, made with an ancient Mayan way of cooking. They’ll also sell them at the farmers’ market. Please help them (and get a reward or two if you like) by backing this project on Kickstarter. 

Rachel Forrest is a former restaurant owner who lives in Exeter (and Austin, Texas). She can be reached by email at rachel.forrest@localmediagroupinc.com. Read more of her Dining Out reviews online.

 

Category: Skillets  Tags: ,  Comments off
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

Comments are closed.